Why the fuss about hocks?
Hock straightness and set. Why is it so important no matter what breed and no matter what you’re breeding for? Because it can literally be life or death!
Hock position tells you a lot about the pelvis of the rabbit. Straight hocks indicate a proper pelvis angulation. Wide hocks indicate a good pelvic width. Both of which are necessary to reduce risk when does are birthing.
Additionally, properly set hocks with good width between them give the rabbit a proper sitting position, which vastly reduces risk of sore hocks.
Finally, wide hocks with good furring also contribute to preventing sore hocks. Wide hocks indicate good bone size for the size of the rabbit, which lends support for the whole frame.
Why the fuss about hocks?
Hock straightness and set. Why is it so important no matter what breed and no matter what you’re breeding for? Because it can literally be life or death!
Hock position tells you a lot about the pelvis of the rabbit. Straight hocks indicate a proper pelvis angulation. Wide hocks indicate a good pelvic width. Both of which are necessary to reduce risk when does are birthing.
Additionally, properly set hocks with good width between them give the rabbit a proper sitting position, which vastly reduces risk of sore hocks.
Finally, wide hocks with good furring also contribute to preventing sore hocks. Wide hocks indicate good bone size for the size of the rabbit, which lends support for the whole frame.
The Good
Rabbit 1a: Excellent hock set. Very straight, set wide apart, and you can draw a nice square almost perfectly in between them. The hocks themselves are very wide and well furred.
Rabbit 1b: Transposing a square over the hocks shows that it’s more of a rectangle in the space between the hocks, which indicates straight but narrow set hocks.
Rabbit 1c: Pretty straight hocks. Very slightly turned inward but not bad at all. A little bit narrower than rabbit 1a.
By looking at the second photo collage, you can see how I have transposed squares onto the hocks. Perfect hocks will allow a square to be able to fit in between them with a corner at the toes of each foot and a corner at the end of the hocks on each foot. If you have to make the square overlap the hocks (e.g., 1b), the rabbit's hocks are too narrow set. The more the square overlaps, the narrower the rabbit is.
The Bad
Rabbit 2a: I am only being picky with this doe because 1a is her brother, and he’s amazing. Very nice wide set hocks, but they do turn in a bit.
Rabbit 2b: This rabbit has very pinched hocks. They’re so pinched that the lines converge into a V before they even leave the rabbit proper. This rabbit would be at higher risk for sore hocks and birthing problems.
Rabbit 2c: Decent width, but pinched hocks.
Rabbit 2d: Straight hocks but very narrow set. It’s a skinny rectangle between the hocks. I do like the width of the hocks on this kit, and it already appears to have fur coverage
These are faults you can assess for at day one in newborn kits. They don't grow out of their hock set or the width of their hocks. If they are pinched at birth, they will remain pinched. If they are narrow set at birth, they will remain narrow. Select for wideset, straight hocks with good width for the size of the rabbit. Do keep in mind that some breeds call for fine bone (e.g., Belgian hare) which will necessarily result in narrower hocks. That is one reason that fine bone breeds need to be on special cage flooring.
With good hock set, good hock width, and good hock furring, sore hocks are unlikely. If sore hocks still develop, look at the cage. Are you using appropriate size spacing and gauge wire? Are you cleaning the cage often enough? Cage floor wiring should be ½"x½" or 1"x½ spacing and be made of either 16 gauge or 14 gauge wire. The higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire, so 14 gauge is better, though it is more expensive. For giant breeds, you may need to even consider 12 gauge to provide more support. The cage floor should not be sagging. If it is, you will need to tighten it. Regular cage maintenance is also necessary to keep rust from developing. White vinegar can be used to break down calcium deposits from the urine, which can be abrasive to hocks. A good wire brush can help scrape off any stuck debris. You can also use Rustoleum to help maintain the cage, but be sure to fully clean the cage first and the fully dry the cage before the rabbit goes back in.
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